The Best Seasons to Travel to South Korea: Part 1: Autumn

“Autumn, the year’s last, loveliest smile.” — William Cullen Bryant

What’s the best time of year to travel to South Korea? Well, when it’s NOT monsooning (June-July), swampy tropical heat-ing (July-September), or unbearably freezing from the dry winds coming down from China (January-March). Which leaves spring (March-May), aka Cherry Blossom Season, and fall (Oct-December), aka Fall Foliage Time.

Spring and Fall in South Korea are just lovely seasons…the temperatures are pleasant, and the landscape is beautiful. Spring is probably more well-known for the cherry blossoms, but in the fall, the green spaces and countryside are just ablaze with the warm colors of fall leaves changing from summer.

For such a cityish city, Seoul has a surprising amount of green spaces. In fact, they’re currently trying to create more parks and garden areas, and connect many of them…with the intent of having all Seoulites within walking distance of a green space.

I’m currently living through my second Korean autumn. Last year I didn’t get around to as many places as I’d wanted (Reason #1,397 to Do Things Alone and Not Wait for Other People to Do Them With You), but this year I am taking Full Advantage of all the places I can get to!

After the oppressively-sticky and hot summer, it is a relief to walk outside every day into crisp, cool, sunny days. The days are 50-60 degrees fahrenheit, and the nights 40-50ish. Perfectly comfortable weather for just a couple light layers. For someone like myself, who is always warm, I am finally able to wear something other than just a t-shirt…but still, it’s November 10 (at writing) and I’ve only worn a light jacket one day. My favorite temperature is one where it’s cool enough that I can walk without sweating…but is not so cold that I’m uncomfortable sitting at a bus-stop or outdoor cafe without a winter coat.

Both last year (2023) and this (2024) I looked to the official fall foliage calendars…and both years they were way off. Peak foliage in Seoul was supposed to be October 28…and here it is November 10, and many places are still not at peak! The vivid yellow gingko trees (here, known as 은행나무 – oonheng namoo – “bank tree”) are at or just about at peak color…but the red-leafed maples, et al, are just barely in color. Whether it’s global warming or what, I don’t know, but even back home  in New York I feel like the prettiest days have been a little later the past few years. Keep this in mind if you’re planning a trip to South Korea next fall. If you want to enjoy the prettiest foliage I would wait til November.

Fun Fact about the gingko trees. While they are stunningly beautiful in the fall with their bright yellow foliage on gently swaying branches, they are also the producers of the stinky-vomit berries…that land on the ground, get stepped on by passers-by and just REEK. Think “fermented vomit.” You get the olfactory visual. You’re welcome. Enjoy the trees, but watch where you’re stepping. Fortunately, in the touristy areas of central Seoul that are known for these trees, like around some of the main palaces, the city is very good at keeping the sidewalks as clean as possible.

These trees are commonly planted around the palaces with their high stone walls. The combination makes a striking combination…which draws both tourists and locals alike, to take pictures. You can usually rent hanbok nearby to do a photo shoot…but otherwise you see parents taking pictures of their children in this bright setting…and Korean boyfriends-cum-Master Photographers guiding their girlfriends through their best poses. In other words, prepare for the there to be A Lot of People in these popular areas. The earlier you can get there, the less crowded they will be. I like to head out early in the morning before the busses are crowded…and get to places while they’re still pretty empty, but the sun is high enough to shine through the colorful leaves.

Autumn is also a great time for eating and drinking at the outdoor pojangmachas. The evenings are cool so you can just wear a light jacket or cardigan or several thin layers, and not get overheated when drinking! One of my favorite things in LIFE is eating outside: brunch on the cafe sidewalk, sweet treats on the cafe’s patio, cocktails at the rooftop bar, breakfast and coffee on the balcony…and soju and anju (foods typically eaten while drinking) on red or blue molded plastic chairs smooshed together on the sidewalk beside the 술집 (sool-jib, or “alchohol house,” aka bar).

With my very-full class and studying schedule I was unable to get around to all the places I wanted this fall…but I did get to quite a few, and I’m very happy I did. And I plan to have more autumns in Korea – money/health permitting. That’s my new subheading by the way…”I want to go to Japan, money/health permitting,” “I plan to stay out of the US as long as possible, money/health permitting,” you get the picture.

Oh, also, the week after Thanksgiving is typically a low airfare week…so keep that in mind when combining a flight with Korea’s beautiful fall foliage.

I hope you get to visit Korea at this beautiful time of year.

More pictures below…you can see the colors just getting better and better as the month wore on. I’m writing this now on December 5, and there are still trees out there with gorgeous foliage!