While on a school break last fall, I took a little “Out of Dodge” trip down to Gyeongju, South Korea. Known as the “museum without walls,” this ancient city, once the capital of the Silla Kingdom, bursts with historical charm, natural beauty, and just the right touch of modern flair. Here’s how my weekend unfolded—temples, tombs, tiramisu, and a few travel lessons along the way.

Day 1: Seoul to Gyeongju

Since I was both the planner and executioner of this trip, a few hiccups were inevitable (#QueenOfGoingInTheWrongDirection). I took a “premium” bus from Seoul, paying a little extra ($29 one way) for wide seats, USB chargers, and even privacy curtains. Worth it. I booked through Klook.com (not sponsored)—easy and convenient.

After three relaxed hours of scenic window-gazing, I arrived in Gyeongju. Ubers and taxis are (usually….#foreshadowing) plentiful here, so I quickly made my way to Hotel Rein, where two nights cost me about $103 USD. It was simple but comfortable, with a deep soaking tub—a welcome amenity.

Since I arrived too early for check-in, I wandered through a local market full of foods and pottery, resisting the urge to photograph everything. Sometimes it’s nice just to be in the moment. I found a quiet café, had a small sandwich and a cold drink, and waited for my room.

Later, refreshed from a quick nap, I headed to Gyochon Hanok Village and Café Street to catch the sunset. The plan: tiramisu and latte on a rooftop. The reality: clumsily spilling my drink (and most of my dessert) after tripping over an invisible step. Classic. I salvaged what I could and enjoyed the lively atmosphere as twilight settled in.

Afterward, I roamed Café Street—a picturesque blend of traditional Korean houses and modern coffee shops, filled with couples, friends, and stylishly dressed dogs in strollers. Though I was enjoyed the lively vibe, I was hungry, so headed for a bagel café I’d found online. The place was charming, but the late-day offerings were…less than fresh. Still, it filled the gap.

The highlight of the evening was visiting Tumuli Park, home to the iconic royal tombs—grassy, rounded mounds glowing under soft lighting. Nearby, I admired Cheomseongdae, the oldest surviving astronomical observatory in Asia. A peaceful end to a long day.

Day 2: Temples, Autumn Leaves, and Twilight Bridges

The next morning, I boarded a bus bound for Bulguksa Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The steep staircase up to the temple was no joke—it took plenty of rest stops, sweat, and huffing-and-puffing to reach the top—but the reward was worth it.

The colorful autumn foliage against the ancient stone architecture was breathtaking, and even though the main hall was under renovation, the scenery was serene and beautiful.

After exploring the grounds (and taking a lot of photos), I headed back to the hotel for a quick rest, then set out again for dusk at Woljeonggyo Bridge. Reconstructed to mirror its Silla-era (57 BCE-935 CE, aka A REALLY long time ago) glory, the traditional wooden bridge lit up under the cobalt sky was like something out of a painting. I spent a long time photographing the shifting twilight hues, and a kind local even offered to take my picture—a sweet moment to remember.

Getting back to the hotel was a little tricky. Relying on Uber in a less touristy area at night turned into a bit of an adventure, but eventually, after much walking and gesturing, I found a taxi driver on a break who kindly took me back. Exhausted, I ended the night with another soak in the tub and collapsed into bed.

Day 3: Burger King and Goodbyes

On my final morning, I abandoned my grand plans of revisiting Café Street for one last culinary hurrah. Tired and craving predictability, I opted for the Burger King across from the bus station. No regrets.

Before boarding the bus, I picked up some red bean bread from a nearby shop to share with friends back in Seoul. The ride back to home was uneventful—a calm end to a weekend full of vivid memories.

Final Thoughts

Gyeongju is a delightful dive into Korea’s past, offering enough modern comforts to keep things fresh. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie (next time, that pork rib restaurant is mine!), or a casual traveler, the city will charm you—and leave you wanting more. I’ve already started an itinerary for my next visit!