As many of you know, I recently set out to swap my student visa in South Korea for a tourist visa, allowing me to spend my final three months here relaxing without classes, schedules, or obligations. To do that, I had to physically leave the country, surrender my residence card (the one that gives you access to Korean bank accounts and phone plans), and re-enter as a tourist, granting me another 90 days of legal stay.

Why Japan, Why a Ferry?

The closest and most economical place to hop to from Korea is Japan. Fortunately for me, as I wasn’t allowed to fly due to a recent eye surgery, there’s a ferry from Busan, South Korea to Fukuoka, Japan via the Camellia Line.

There are two options:

  • An 11-hour overnight ride (which I took going there to save on a night of lodging)
  • A 6-hour daytime trip (which I took on the way back)

While there used to be a faster hydrofoil, as of May 2025, that service is suspended indefinitely. The Camellia Line is now your only boat to Japan.

Booking and Upgrading

Booking online only gave me access to the cheapest fare: a 10-person, dormitory-style room with futons on the floor and one outlet for everyone. That cost me $122 USD roundtrip — which sounds great until you realize a roundtrip flight from Seoul to Fukuoka is around $150 and only takes 90 minutes.

As someone who:

  • Was unsure about getting up from a floor futon after a night of sleep,
  • Had no idea if there’d be any sort of assistance available to help me up (strong neighbor or grab bars),
  • And was facing 27+ hours of phone usage with one shared outlet…

…I was relieved at check-in to find that I could upgrade to a private room with a raised bunk bed, a sink, and, most importantly, two power outlets. The upgrade cost me ₩40,000 ($28 USD) and was 100% worth it.

Fun Fact: Japan uses the same outlet plugs as the US. The voltage is a bit lower, but a standard phone charger works just fine.

The Journey Begins

I left my goshiwon at 6:15am Friday in an Uber, bound for the Gangnam Express Bus Terminal, followed by a 4-hour bus ride to Busan, then a 45-minute taxi to the international ferry terminal. I had planned to explore Busan a bit before ferry check-in time (90 minutes before boarding), but rain and luggage logistics killed that idea. Instead, I found a cafe inside the terminal, had some lunch, charged my phone, and watched a movie.

The ferry terminal actually has luggage lockers, but it didn’t make sense to stash my bag and leave…the port is in an industrial, non-walkable area and I didn’t have that much time anyway.

Boarding: Hurry Up and Wait

When check-in finally began, I found myself standing in line for hours, not knowing the unspoken rule that you place your luggage to hold your place in line and then go chill elsewhere (which locals do brilliantly). I’ll know for next time.

Immigration and customs were easy, though crowded. An emotional moment for me was surrendering my Alien Registration Card (ARC) …a symbolic farewell to my time as a resident. Now, I’m just a tourist 🙁

From there, it was a long walk to the boat (of course with non-working moving sidewalks, ugh). Everyone else sprinted ahead…they knew they had to hurry to claim the good seats in the public lounges. Couples, families, and friend groups brought food, drinks, and games, and had little picnics onboard until lights-out at 11.

Life Aboard the Camellia Line

I expected a bare-bones ferry (think Fire Island Ferry, a reference for my NY peeps), but this was more like a mini ocean liner. There were:

  • Lounge seating with tables
  • A restaurant
  • Karaoke rooms
  • A bath spa
  • A game room
  • A tiny convenience store (think: two shelves and a cooler)

Sadly, as a solo traveler, I didn’t really get to enjoy the lounge. Most spots were set up for couples or groups, and I didn’t feel bold enough to crash someone’s party.

It was raining heavily, so outside access was discouraged…and slippery (as I learned when boarding via the uncovered gangplank). I had visions of sailing off into the sunset while filming Busan’s skyline draped in a warm glow, but…yeah, no. It was dark, wet, and uneventful.

The ferry was scheduled to leave at 8pm… but we didn’t actually depart until somewhere around 10 or 11. I think it has something to do with the permitted hours of crossing international borders at sea?

Food, Money, and (No) Charging

FYI: The ferry only accepts Japanese yen — no credit cards, Korean won, or mobile pay. Thankfully, I exchanged yen in Seoul, so I was able to buy:

  • What I thought were orange slices (but instead they were those jelly things you suck out of the packaging — I’m not Team Jelly)
  • A drink I thought was water (it was a sports drink — I’m not Team Sports Drink either)

Also, apparently a few raindrops got into my phone’s charging port while boarding and I couldn’t charge it for hours. Cue stress dreams about landing in Japan with a dead phone and no way to navigate. Luckily, by morning it was at 100%.

Arrival in Fukuoka

Disembarkation was a repeat of boarding in reverse: security, immigration, customs. I’d pre-purchased a 2-day international phone plan so I could stay connected until picking up my pocket wifi at the airport.

Return Trip: Daylight and Dried Salami

The return trip was much smoother and quicker with fewer people, less waiting. I booked a bunk in a dorm room for just an additional $7 USD, with a privacy curtain and my own outlet.

There were no food options at the port in Japan (unless I wanted a box of chocolates from the duty free shop) (and I mean, I DID want a box of chocolates, but…), so I was grateful for the ferry snack shelf where I purchased packages of dried pepper salami and salted peanuts (which for some reason reminded me of my mother).

FYI

“Play Nice on Board the Ship”

  • Once you leave the port, there is no wifi on-board the boat.
  • There are several types of room upgrades from simple to fancy, some even with private bathrooms and balconies
  • There are showers for travelers

Final Thoughts: Ferry vs Flight?

Would I do it again?

  • The ferry is cheaper, but not by much — especially if you factor in travel to Busan
  • It’s a slow, scenic (in theory) journey, but in rain and darkness, it’s just… slow
  • For introverted solo travelers, it can feel isolating — I wasn’t comfortable enough to take advantage of the amenities
  • If you’re traveling with friends, family, or a partner, it’s probably a more enjoyable and social experience

For me, the ferry was a unique, one-time experience but I’ll have to rate the ferry as only fair. And if I’m cleared to fly next time, I think I’ll choose speed over sentiment.