Four Days in Fukuoka: Serenity, Steak, and a Stubborn Cold

I am officially a Language School Dropout (cue the backup dancers), and I’m fine with it. I gave it my all for 18 months. But I wanted to enjoy the rest of my time in Korea, so I unenrolled from the university. That meant I had to physically leave the country and re-enter to change my visa from Student (D-4) to Tourist (C-3-9), which would give me up to 90 more days in Korea.

Only 90 days left. That’s wild!

Since I can’t fly yet due to my recent eye surgery, the only way to leave Korea (short of a visit to North Korea, ha!) was to take the ferry to Fukuoka, Japan. I booked an Airbnb for four nights, an overnight ferry, and a bus to Busan, where the ferry departs.

Japan Travel Apps I Used

I created a “Japan” folder on my phone and added all the useful apps:

• Suica: Japan’s transportation card…fully digital on iPhone, stored in your Wallet, and reloadable with a credit card. Can be used for public transport, some taxis, vending machines, and convenience stores. (Android users need a physical card.)

• Uber Eats: Hello old friend! I ordered a bucket of KFC my first night so I’d have chicken in the fridge for a few days. Uber Eats works in Japan, unlike Korea.

• Go: A native Japanese rideshare app. Uber works too, but it was expensive (NYC-level prices) and less reliable outside the city. Go worked well and let me input my credit card for auto-payment. Interestingly, Go gave me the option to tip, unlike in Korea or most of Japan.

• DiDi: Another rideshare app. I used it once when the others didn’t respond.

• Google Maps: Obvious but essential. I moved it into the Japan folder.

• Direct Ferries: How I bought and stored my ferry tickets.

• Klook: Used to purchase and store my bus tickets.

• Payke: A cool app that scans product barcodes, translates package info, and shows item price. I only tried it once and couldn’t get it to work, so I went back to…

• Papago & Google Translate: My go-to translation apps.

Day One: I’m In Japan!

I got off the ferry Saturday morning, exhausted, in yet another foreign country…unable to read anything and with poor post-surgery vision. My first stop was Hakata Airport to pick up a pocket Wi-Fi from Sakura Mobile (my backup since I hadn’t ordered a Japanese SIM in time). It was easy, reliable, and cost just $8.99 total for four days, including a prepaid return envelope which I dropped in a mailbox at the ferry port on my way out.

I gave myself permission on this trip to slow down and not push myself outside my comfort zone. New places and unfamiliar systems give me a lot of anxiety, especially the fear of doing something wrong or getting lost. So after picking up the Wi-Fi, I bought a pack of coffee-flavored nuts at a convenience store, found a seat near an open door where a lovely breeze was blowing, and just… breathed. I people-watched until I felt calm enough to head back outside and grab Taxi #2.

Since I had hours to kill before Airbnb check-in (not until 4 p.m.), I headed to Ohori Park, which I’d seen in some YouTube videos. It seemed like the perfect spot for the day…a large pond, shaded benches, a café, an ice cream shop, vending machines, bathrooms, and even a small museum. “Ohori” means “moat” in Japanese…the pond used to be part of the moat surrounding nearby Fukuoka Castle.

Exhausted from 24+ hours of travel and still dragging my wheely suitcase, I didn’t explore the whole park. I found a shaded bench near the pond and watched people pedal swan boats around. Sitting beside an authentic stone lantern got me unexpectedly emotional. My mom loved Japan so much, and I think she would have loved to return someday. So I felt like I was doing this trip for both of us.

After a while, I went into the café and had one of the nicest meals I’ve had in a long time. I sat at the counter (Japan is very solo-diner-friendly), ate a lovely steak, and enjoyed a delicious Mystery Soup…kind of like a very light cream of chicken with a drizzle of truffle oil. So good.

After lunch, I walked a little more, but my suitcase was loud on the cobblestones, so I found another spot to rest. I had a cold plum juice from a vending machine, and with earbuds, continued the audiobook I’d been listening to. That moment—just sitting in the shade, breeze on my face, surrounded by peace—in Japan—was more than enough.

Eventually, I called an Uber to take me to my Airbnb. That’s when I realized just how far outside the city it was. the ride was $70! A similar trip in Seoul would’ve cost $25 tops. Note to future self: figure out public transport immediately when I return to Japan in November.

The Airbnb was just as described. First thing I did was turn on the AC…Japan was significantly warmer than Seoul has been. The entry instructions were detailed but clear, and I had no trouble getting into the building and my room (anxiety hurdle, cleared!). The bed had a plush mattress topper and a lovely crinkly down comforter. After my Korean bed (which is a little prison bed-esque), this was heaven.

I had a quiet evening. I ordered a bucket of KFC, took a long bath (bathtubs are rare in my Korean apartment price range, but every Japanese apartment has a deep soaking tub), and quickly fell asleep.

Day Two: Day Off

I’d loosely planned to explore and shop today. My great-niece attends Japanese school in Los Angeles, and her mom (my niece) had hoped I could find a kimono. Since she already has one, I suggested a yukata, a lightweight summer kimono often worn to festivals. Sadly, all the stores I found were closed on Sundays, so I bumped shopping to Tuesday and gave myself permission to stay in and relax.

That evening, I went for a short walk around the neighborhood and discovered a magical smoothie machine at the 7-11 around the corner. You pick a frozen fruit cup from the fridge (acai, strawberry banana, mixed fruit, etc.), pay, and pop it into the blender machine—which turns it into a delicious smoothie in minutes. Mine was about 12oz and cost $2.50. I’d be in 7-Eleven every day if I lived there. If only I’d had a little gin or plum wine to spike it with!

Dinner was more KFC, followed by another soak in the bath, and early to bed. Tomorrow’s plan: Nanzoin Temple and the Giant Reclining Buddha.

Day Three: Nanzoin Temple & Giant Reclining Buddha

Somebody’s watching me…it’s my anxieteee. Today I had to take the train. I couldn’t do another $70 taxi ride. The station was very close, literally around the corner. And having watched so many Japanese dramas and movies, and always seeing them standing on the train platform that was street level, I thought Japanese trains were going to be much better for me than Korean subways with the 6 floors underground worth of stairs to get anywhere. But. What I hadn’t taken into account was that you need to get UP and over the tracks…to get to the platform in the middle. Sigh. So I was back on the stairs. But it was just one (long) staircase up…and then another one down (which is easier but just as painful). And it was not crowded at this time so I was able to go as slowly as I needed to. I got a little turned around in the station but a nice Train Man came up to me with a “can I help you?” look…and I was able to point to the train I needed on my phone and he was able to point me in the right direction. And I got on the correct train and got a seat. Another anxiety hurdle behind me.

GoogleMaps was actually working better for me than NaverMaps does in Korea…it kept up better with where we actually were and when my stop was. I did ask the young woman next to me when the train was coming to a stop if this was Kido Nanzoin-mae…and she nodded yes, so off I got.

And thus began My Long Walk…mostly uphill. All the websites had assured me that the temple was “just a few steps” from the train station. If by “few steps” they meant a quarter mile, then sure, okay. But that was just to the temple entrance. It was then uphill and stairs for almost another mile-and-a-half! Partially my fault because there were many side quest staircases…and it was hard to know which stairs led to the big Buddha…so I did take quite a few staircases only to wind up at a small shrine or grouping of Buddha statues…and a dead-end, so would have to do a you-ey and go back the way I’d come.

Fortunately at one of them there was a group of women all taking turns taking pictures of their group…and I asked if they’d like me to take a picture of them all together…Hai! Hai! (yes! yes!)…and after the photo shoot was over I asked if they knew the way to the reclining Buddha. I don’t even really remember how we understood one another. I sort of said things and they responded…and they sort of said things and I responded…and then they conveyed “follow us!” And they led me to the right road (aka hill) to take up to to the Big Buddha.

There were a lot of little rest stops and I took advantage of every single one. One landing area had a wish shrine. I wrote some wishes on the little wooden “card”: that my sister be in peace now…and that my niece and brother-in-law heal well. I tied the wish near the shrine. Then I just sat there for awhile. It was very peaceful.

And finally, FINALLY, I made it to the heavens above…and there was the Giant Reclining Buddha. And he is giant. He’s the same height as the Statue of Liberty…just laying down. There were some benches there facing him…so I sat there to let my heart rest and my sweat cool a bit. And then all the emotion really hit me.

The past several weeks have had a lot of moving parts…eye recovery, being sick, getting unenrolled at school, preparing for the trip, traveling to Japan…and it was in the middle of all that that I’d gotten the call from my niece that my sister had passed.

And I really only had a moment to feel anything, because things had to happen so I could leave Korea on time, no ifs, ands, or buts. So all the distraction really…well, distracted me. But now, out of breath, exhausted, sitting down facing this larger than life Buddha in Japan…my mother came to me, my sister came to me…and I just…tears started running down my face. I was trying to not sound like I was crying cuz there were other people sitting there, too, but…then someone sat down next to me and I saw it was my photo shoot tour guide friend from down the hill. She asked if I was alright “daijobudesuka?” I tried to briefly explain about my mother and sister and I knew she wasn’t getting what I was saying at all, but…I just needed to say words to a human.

When she left, I got myself together, and wandered around a bit, visiting Buddha’s feet…and seeing if I could figure out how to get inside him (you can do that…but I couldn’t figure out where)…then started my descent back down to earth.

Japan is a real mix of old and new. Obviously I’d only been in one small area for a few days, but I’d experienced both. And the old…the temples and pagodas and statues and landscaping…is so lovely. I’m going to say this but I’m going to preface it by saying, “but it’s really not fair,” but Japan is much prettier than Korea. But…you have to remember that so much of Korea’s “old” and maybe equally pretty, was destroyed in World War II…by the Japanese. It’s such a difficult history between these two countries. But I’m not going there now. The net is that Japan still has all it’s original parks and gardens and shrines, etc.

Everything was so lush…stone temples had moss growing on them…tori gates had graceful weeping branches leading to them…there was this darling vine growing on eveything that had the tiniest, delicate, coin-shaped leaves…stone buddhas had softened with age…it was all so…

I love Korea…but Japan is magical. 

When I made it down to street level, I got a coke from a vending machine (Japanese vending machines are everywhere) and sat at a shaded picnic table for a bit before I headed back to the station.

My plan was to go to another Japanese garden…the train route seemed easy enough on paper…but when I got off at the station where I needed to transfer, I couldn’t figure out where to go…and I couldn’t even figure out how to get to the street to take a taxi there (!) and I just gave up. Asked a Train Man where the train was that would take me home…I think I swiped my suica card one too many times going back and forth unnecessarily through the turnstiles, but…hey.

I made it back to my home station. Went into a little Japanese market and got some sushi and grapefruit juice for dinner (a young man had to come help me use the self-checkout)…and Mister Donut for two donuts (I dropped a chocolate frosted donut on the floor and had to convey that to Cashier and she kept thinking I was saying I wanted to eat it there) and an iced milk tea. AND a pharmacy because my cough felt like it was turning into croup (do adults get croup?) and Japan, bless their hearts, actually has cough syrup, unlike some other East Asian country that shall remain nameless. Then I dragged myself and all my stuff home…and turned on the ac and collapsed on the bed.

I’d walked almost 3 miles, much of which was up- and down-hill. I did several+ shots of the cough syrup over the next 12 hours. Hot bath and showered…and my body and I were ready for bed. I really just wanted to lay under that comforter.

Day Four: A Comforter & a Cocktail

Sorry this is So Long…but today will be quick…cuz I just wanted to lay under that comforter and drink cough syrup and grapefruit juice. I was supposed to go to the foodstalls that evening, for which Fukuoka is known. It is actually the birthplace of a specific type of ramen: Hakata ramen, which has a lightly creamy broth and plenty of ton-katsu (like breaded pork cutlets). And it sounded delicous, as did all the foods on sticks that would be available. But I Just Could Not Move.

I’d searched online and couldn’t find anywhere that had child-sized yukatas or kimono…other than Google suggesting I “try department stores in one of the large shopping malls.” And I’m sorry, but that was the last thing I was up to on this day. I’m barely up to that on my best day!

So my last day in Fukuoka was just quiet and peaceful…and I realized without even meaning to, that I’d followed my “every other day” life itinerary.

I’m just not one to Run Around and See All The Things. I’d rather do a few things in a relaxed manner…and then rest up the next day. Plus, I’ll be back in Japan in November for two months…and again in the spring for another two months. I’ll have plenty of time (knock on wood) to see and do all the things…at my own pace.

I packed up that night…and left early the next morning by taxi to start my long journey home. That was another long day…15 hours in total. I can get from Tampa, FL to Seoul, South Korea in 15 hours!

Notes

• This very quick trip really whet my appetite to go back in the fall.
• I definitely need to learn some basic Japanese. I only know about 12 words…which I’ve picked up from watching Japanese dramas and movies. I’ve already started little daily lessons with an online course – yay, a new alphabet to learn! And by “a new alphabet” I mean three new alphabets!!!
• Japan is much more expensive than Korea! I’ve been spoiled for two years, it’s tough to adjust to “normal” prices again
• To help me remember the value of Japanese Yen (vs Korean won), I’ve rounded up just a bit to give me full numbers…but 1,000 Japanese yen = $7 US…while 1,000 Korean won equals .70 US. The first two days I kept forgetting and I’d see like “3,000Y” and think (in Korean terms), oh that’s fine that’s only like $2.10…but no….it was $21!!!
• I lugged my Canon camera, extra lens, and small video camera around everywhere I went…and Never Used Them! At heavenly temple mountain, there were “no camera” signs everywhere…but I saw other visitors (mostly Japanese) taking pictures with cell phones so I followed suit
• In foreign countries when you’re not sure of the rules…just follow what other people are doing
• Japanese people were very helpful (as are Korean people). If they saw me struggling or looking confused by something, someone would come right over to me and help. One of the ferry captains actually saw me lugging my little suitcase up the stairs to my deck and took my bag from me and whisked us up the stairs and showed me to my berth. Very helpful.

I enjoyed Japan and my time there. I think I’m really going to love it there when I can stay longer and move around more leisurely. I’ll be in Osaka for November & December, just in time for fall foliage, my favorite!

Sayonara!

More pictures…