Life These Weeks in South Korea: Jan 22-Feb 4, 2024
Okay, a) this is the way my weeks have been shaking out these days, so…I’m just going to go with it; and b) if whining annoys you, maybe skip this post.
Days I Had Kidney Stone Pain
No one wants to keep hearing about that, so we’ll just move on to…
All The Other Days
It got brutally cold here again this week…and between the single digit temps + wind, and my foot, and the incessant kidney stone awareness, I took an uber to class 3 days this week. It’s a 3-minute ride. And every time the driver is like, “is this right?” Or some variation thereof, cuz who takes an Uber for a 3 minute ride??
AMERICANS.
Guh.
Most days I was so exhausted after class I just barely got my homework/vocabulary/studying done before managing to watch one episode of my current drama before falling asleep.
Thursday, 1.25.24
The one shining evening was, of course, Thursday. We went to Gwangjan Market, one of the oldest traditional markets in Seoul, with rows and rows of traditional Korean food vendors.
We had kalguksu, which is Korean Knife Cut Noodle Soup. When you sit down, the ahjumma rolls out fresh dough and cuts it into noodles in front of you, then they go straight into the broth and it’s in a bowl in front of you in less than five minutes. It was So Good. It’s a clear broth, but not bland, I’m not sure what was flavoring it, but the fresh noodles had a pepperish (like black pepper) flavor that was very nice. It’s a giant bowl for 8,000won ($6) and it was delicious.
Then we shared a mung bean pancake, which is essentially like a potato pancake, but with mung bean instead of potato. We were both kinda like, yeah, okay…don’t ever need to have THAT again, ha ha. It wasn’t BAD, it was just…MUNG BEAN. Ha ha. And to their credit, mung beans are very high in protein. So, silver lining.
And just as we were leaving (it’s like an indoor/outdoor market, so unheated, and we were FREEZING), we passed a hotteok stand and hotteok is one of my favorite things here. There are so few desserty things here – like if you want something sweet/desserty, you need to go to a bakery or a coffee shop with baked goods…the traditional Korean restaurants never have desserts on a menu. So when I can get a little something sweet after a meal, I’m very happy. PLUS, it was freshly fried so it was Very Hot and felt so nice on my hands 🙂 Two birds.
After that, since it was SO COLD, we headed back to Kondae, near me, to go to a bar that was showing the Korea vs Malaysia pre-lim game of the Asian Cup – YES, your girl is now a fledgling sports fan. Well, soccer. Well, KOREAN soccer (shocker). It took us going into three bars to find one with some available seats…as this was a pretty important game for South Korea. We had some drinks and appetizers and sort of watched the game. The tvs were in the other room, so when we’d hear Big Cheers or Sad Groans, we’d crane our necks to see what was going on, but…other than that we just talked.
Afterwards, he got on the train, to go home and I walked the nine miles (gross exaggeration) back home, where I fell asleep immediately…only to be woken up at 7am by 8/10 pain, which is not only Not Good, it is Very Very Bad. Like to the point I was actually contemplating calling an uber to take me to the emergency room (which is an even shorter ride than to class, but…) but then mercifully the pain killers kicked in and put me to sleep…and when I woke up later I felt reasonably human. I did my tutoring session on Zoom but did not go to class. I napped and walked to the convenience store next door for apple juice and milk and bananas.
Saturday., 1.27.24
I woke up in the morning feeling no pain, no discomfort, no awareness, no NOTHING so I took advantage and left the house for a nice solo brunch one town over.
Can I just tell you about this french toast?? So, they frenched it, but THEN, they sprinkled it with granulated sugar and BRULEED it, so it had the delicate, sweet, crispy coating of a creme brulee! Where has THIS been all my life?!? Served with butter, blueberry jam, and vanilla ice cream, it was lovely.
Morning, 10/10.
Afternoon, not so much. I was feeling a little tired when I got home, which is not unusual these days (the fatigue is real), but I felt a little “pre-fevery.” Do other people get that? Like, there’s no other particular symptom, I don’t HAVE a fever, I’m not warm, I don’t have a sore or scratchy throat, but there’s just something that alerts me to the fact that I’m GOING to have a fever.
And in two hours I did. 101.4. Chills shakes trembling, had on multiple layers of clothing, including hooded wool coat, laying under both the blankets and the other wool coat. Could. Not. Get. Warm. For hours. Was trying to text friend back in NY to say if I disappear, call…call…and then I got all upset cuz I didn’t even know who here he should reach out to to check on me. I was IN IT.
This lasted about 6 hours…finally around 10pm the chills subsided and I was able to doze a bit…but then was hungry and got all upset cuz I can’t order food delivery WOW I AM A MESS.
That’s how I feel here. Just like a complete mess. I like to think I was a pretty strong, independent person…but I left that in the US. Now I feel like I can’t do ANYTHING. I have to ask for help with EVERYTHING…or I just have to not do it. Oh well, can’t get there/order from there, guess I just won’t eat today. That’s a common one. I’ve lost 35lbs now, unintentionally, and while you could say, well, that’s good, it doesn’t FEEL good. I feel like I never have enough gas in the car to go as far as I need to go. Hence the fatigue.
Ugh.
Thats’ enough whining for THAT day.
The next day the fever was gone but I was exhausted and just rested all day.
Mon., 1.29.24
Apparently the fever was related to a virus because I was now sporting the fever blister that took over South Korea. Sigh. It just gets better and better.
Tue, 1.30.24
School.
Studying and memorizing a presentation for Wednesday that if they’d just given it to us one day earlier we would have the whole weekend to memorize it instead of two days (when we were also preparing for a test).
Wed., 1.31.24
It finally happened…and without placing too much blame on another person, SHE MADE ME CRY AND I HAD TO LEAVE THE CLASS ugh ugh UGH. Really, the crying is like 95% on me. I’m so on edge these days, the last few weeks of class just get away from me (just like the first time) and every day I’m an anxious mess. So when I got paired up with a girl that I already KNOW has an impatient, belittling tone, I was like ohhhhhhhh….and sure enough, she did not have the patience to give me 30 seconds to figure out what the exercise was about and spoke in THAT TONE and I was just like NOPE NOT TODAY, and said “excuse me, I have to go right now,” and left the room as unobtrusively as I could to stand five minutes in the bathroom to try and get my sh*t together before going back.
Fortunately when I went back she had moved back to her seat and another student was in her place (I don’t know how that happened), and we calmly and patiently figured the exercise out together, no problem. After class the teacher tried to ask me if I was okay and I was like thank you, but really, let’s not bring it up again…
Thur., 2.1.24
I almost cancelled Hyungun Thursday cuz I was just feeling so overwhelmed, plus, my face was one big fever blister…but I can never resist his “can we meet this week??” It’s probably just something about the Korean phrasing, but it always sounds so positive and I just can’t refuse. So we stayed localish and went to a Chinese restaurant where I had lamb for the first time in my life. And I believe I have now come as far from being a vegan as I possibly can. Lamb.
I had been chastised by the tutor for not “language exchanging” enough with Hyungun, but…sigh. I know I’ve said this before, but it’s the one time I have each week to just be with a lovely person and NOT feel anxious about speaking or understanding or doing or saying the wrong thing and I NEED that. So I told him we needed to speak a LITTLE Korean, so he asked me 소주 더 필료해요?? (do you need more soju?) to which I replied 네! (YES!) and we were good, ha ha.
He said I didn’t really have to take Jun (the tutor) so seriously, ha ha.
Jun has said a couple times recently that he has other friends who would be interested in language exchange, and paranoid me thinks he’s just trying to get me away from Hyungun, ha ha, but I’m not having it. He’ll be gone soon enough when he leaves to study abroad 🙁 I’m not willingly giving up any time before that.
Maybe when I’m taking this class for the THIRD time (sigh), I’ll have time for another Language Exchange meetup with a new person (who will be kept strictly business!), but not right now.
Oh PS, I got my visa extension approval so am here for at least another 6 months.
Fri., 2.2.24
Groundhog’s Day. I tried explaining GD to Hyungun Thursday night and…yeah. It doesn’t really make any sense to me either.
Because I had an errand to do in the morning in the neighboring town, my building friend went with me and we made a breakfast morning out of it. I was telling her about the day before in class and she made the executive decision that I should not go to class that day and I should just relax. Who am I to ignore an executive order?? Immediately my anxiety dropped, and I napped in the afternoon and then went down to the river thinking there might be a sunset but instead it was foggy and cold. Still, it was nice to just be OUT. And I figured out how to take the subway back without spending hours on the computer beforehand, mapping out all the route options.
Sat., 2.3.24
Just a quiet day inside, spent a lot of time studying and writing sentences using new grammar rules.
Sun., 2.4.24
Went with building friend to a far-away market. It was a nice day, and I planned to get outside again later but instead I fell asleep…and then it was cloudy and didn’t look all that inviting.
A girl from my first class just moved into my building, so she came to see me – we can’t talk that easily. She’s Chinese and knows very little English…and she speaks better Korean than I do. So it’s a lot of typing into translator apps. But we had a little visit, which was nice. I showed her where some things in the building are, and she brought me some ramen. And she’s cute when she calls me 언니 (un-nie), “big sister.”
Now that I have my renewed student visa, I am looking a bit for a new apartment. A kitchen would really help me eat better. But there are trade-offs. In this building I have my one friend who is so supportive when I’m not feeling well and goes to the convenience store for me if I need anything. That’s not a small thing. A lot of things we do together now so neither of us has to do them alone…would now be done alone. So I’m LOOKING, but not really hard…and something would have to REALLY be an improvement for me to make the change.
Tomorrow morning I have an appointment back at the hospital because I’m almost out of the painkillers and need to see the doctor to get a refill. I’m hoping I don’t have to go through the whole double-scan process all over again, ugh.
Sorry, this was SO LONG. I just couldn’t get last week’s post together in time, and now here we are with a double-post.
You can breathe now 🙂
Tina
Define Bettye: Perseverance!!! Girl, I know we only know each other through your blog, but DANG! You are pressing forward into uncharted territory and are truly gaining ground. I’ve been living vicariously through your trip and I know myself—I would have packed up and moved back to the good ‘ol USA a long time ago! Kudos to you!!
bettyewp
Ha, I may be feeling many things here, but “giving up” is not one of them. I’m stubborn that way. I’m determined to figure it all out and make it work…it’s just taking me (A LOT) longer than I expected 🙂
Penny
There’s no getting away from it – living in a foreign country as opposed to being a tourist or doing some ‘travelling’ is very challenging. You just don’t realise this on a holiday, but countries, their culture, the food, the language, it’s all very different. I mean, SO different. Don’t forget you are brave to do this and it is an experience you will never forget. Actually some of your friends sound lovely, and the food seems scrumptious. Give yourself a hug.
bettyewp
Oh, the friends I’ve made are Top Notch – really kind, generous, helpful, sweet people. I don’t mean in any way to imply that my friends back home are not also those things…but “new friends” is just such a surprise to me cuz I didn’t think I’d make ANY friends here, and now I think I’ve met the cream of the crop, ha ha 🙂
And you’re right about tourist/visitor vs “living” in a place. As a visitor you’re probably at a hotel with all kinds of support, and in Englosh, no less…a concierge who can help you get around, room service, etc.And it’s 1-2 weeks usually…so even if it’s challenging you have the mindset of “well, it’s just for a short time and then I’ll be back home – THERE’S NO PLACE LIKE HOME.” Well, this is home now 🙂 And there’s no concierge, haha.
Thanks for the second-hand hug…and for your support as always, Penny 🙂
Lisa
I agree with Penny – you are so brave! You have made new friends and you have navigated the first few months!
bettyewp
Brave, no. Terrified of every new experience. But doing it anyway. Sometimes crying and trembling as I do it, but doing it.
Sally in St Paul
I say terrified but doing it anyway is the definition of “brave.” Navigating a different language and culture, being in school, and dealing with illness and those horrible kidney stones (UGH)…it is A LOT. Add to that no kitchen and not being able to order in food, good grief! I am an absolute mess when my eating schedule is interrupted (I’m basically a toddler) so that aspect really stands out to me. Definitely not happy weight loss when it happens because you’re too sick/tired/drained/etc. to go out and find food.
Tammy
I am absolutely in AWE of your courage and persistence. I’m sitting here being stymied by trying to book a trip to Alaska and that’s all in English! I can’t imagine doing the things you’re doing in a country where you’re having to navigate a foreign language to do anything. You keep going for all of us older women who are just so impressed and amazed and inspired by everything you’re doing. You know, I was listening to Dan Fogelberg just yesterday and this verse really hit home, maybe it will help: “Love when you can. Cry when you have to. Be who you must, it’s a part of the plan. Await your arrival, with simple survival, and one day we’ll all understand. ” You keep doing what you’re doing, Bettye, because this older lady in Virginia is impressed as hell by you!
MJ
You’re doing the dang thing! I’m so proud of you 🙂
You are right, travelling in a foreign country is something we take for granted as being easy when nearly everyone speaks some English, and we do rely on the hotels, tour guides, etc. I can’t imagine not having that to fall back on but damn, you’re doing it!!!
Iris
Oh my goodness – I’ve been really out of touch and not been keeping up. I’m so sorry you’ve teen feeling poorly – you go back on my prayer list. It does sound like you have made some friends and that’s a really good thing. I still don’t know how you do it. Love you, Iris
hena
Mmm all that food look so good. Sorry you are having kidney stones pain.
bettyewp
Thanks! Hopefully getting it taken care of later this month 🙂
Barbara
Hopefully your health condition is getting better! I once had one little kidney stone and I remember it was pain from hell.
As to cooking: you do have a fridge, right? Maybe it’s enough to buy one of those little gas cookers which work with a cartridge? Plus a wok and a pot and you’re done, I own such and use it for making Bulgogi at the table, but it also worked for cooking, when my old stove broke. It’s sold everywhere in Asia (mine is a korean one).
So great , that you can stay another six month in Korea. “Everyday in everyway it’s getting better and better ” …sing…
bettyewp
I do have a fridge…but we’re not allowed any sort of cooking/heating applicances in our rooms. All there is in the kitchen is like a countertop mount electric burner. I’m THINKING ABOUT taking the risk and getting one of those usb powered (outlet shortage) coffee warmers (that double as candle warmers, we can’t burn candles either). Then I could get a french press, boil water in the kitchen, and bring the press back to my room and just warm the coffee as needed on the cup warmer. But I don’t know. God forbid anything happens…
I’m looking in a very non-commital way at apartments online…something with a kitchen…that’s a little less $ than I’m paying now but that’s an easy commute to school and has a good window/view/light. There’s not a lot in this area…and it has to be really worth the effort of moving for me. Plus, I’d be leaving my building friend and it’s been good to have a 1) nearby friend for “let’s walk to the market/coffee shop/pizza/restaurant,” 2) someone to check in on me when I’m feeling poorly to see if I need anything. We frequently make convenience store runs for one another, or “do you have any milk for my mac&cheese?” or “do you have a 1,000won for the dryer?” So, gaining a kitchen means losing some things so it’s not an easy decision.
Mrs. Claire Gutknecht
Your post is incredibly detailed, it feels like I’ve experienced your week alongside you! The ups and downs, the small victories and challenges, they’re all woven into your narrative. It’s quite the journey, from the highs of enjoying traditional Korean cuisine at Gwangjan Market to the lows of dealing with kidney stone pain and unexpected fevers. Your descriptions are vivid, like when you described the French toast with the bruleed sugar coating, it sounded absolutely divine! It’s understandable that you’re feeling overwhelmed at times, especially navigating through the ups and downs of living in a new place. It’s great that you have supportive friends around you, like your building friend who goes the extra mile to make sure you’re okay. And congratulations on getting your visa extension approved! Here’s hoping your appointment at the hospital goes smoothly tomorrow. Thanks for sharing your journey with us!
bettyewp
Hello Claire! Thanks for all the nice things you said about the January post! Oh my gosh, you reminded me of the wonderful french toast – I can’t believe that was three months ago! I just had ANOTHER amazing french toast breakfast last week at a new cafe. And am now having all new physical issues, ha ha!
I don’t know what it is about Korea, it’s trying to beat me! Sometimes I feel like we’re neck and neck as far as who’s going to win…some weeks Korea wins, sometimes I win…this week…let’s just say hopefully next week I’ll do better.
Hope you come back and visit again!